We’re stoked to be finally watching indoor climbing at the Olympics! After a riveting two nights of qualifications, it is now it is down to the final eight male and female climbers. Who will be crowned Olympic Champion?
Olympic scoring – It’s a combined format that includes all three disciplines in one day. All disciplines have their same rules as any other competition. It’s 2 speed climbs, 4 boulders (3 in finals) and 1 lead climb. The place in each discipline determines your discipline score, then all three scores are multiplied together and the lowest eight scores go through to the finals. So for example if you come first in Speed you receive a score of 1 and if you come fourteenth in bouldering you get 14 points. At the end all points are multiplied together. For example Speed 1st, bouldering 14th and Lead 12th its (1x14x12 = 128 points). Similar to golf the lowest score wins, with the lowest possible score being 1 if you come first in all disciplines.
Just out from the finals, our route setters have taken a look at the sport climbing finalists of Tokyo 2021.
Male Sport Climbing Finalists
Name | Age | Country | Style | IFSC Ranking
36 years old, France, Speed Climbing, Ranked 1st in Speed qualifying in 12th position.
Known for his speed and power winning overall Speed Events in 2018 and 2019 for the IFSC Climbing World Cup.
28 years old, Czech Republic, Lead Climbing & Boulder, Ranked 2nd in Bouldering and 1st for Lead qualifying in 11th position.
Probably the most well-known climber in the competition. He started his climbing achievements from age 13 where he was the first to climb 9a. Since then he continued to expand his resume in the outdoor scene by onsiting and establishing some of the hardest climbs making him possibly the best climber in the world on rock.
17 years old, America, Lead Climbing, No IFSC ranking qualifying in 18th position.
Fresh out of the youth scene where he was achieving finals for boulder, lead and combined competing since 2017.
Alberto Gines Lopez
18 years old, Spain, Lead Climbing, Ranked 2nd for Lead and 72nd for boulder qualifying in 15th position.
Another fresh out of youth climber with high achievements including 5 IFSC gold medals in Youth lead and 4 in youth bouldering spanning from 2017. His first IFSC world cup in 2019 had him take a silver in the Lead European Championships and Lead World cup.
25 years old, Japan, Bouldering, Ranked 1st for Bouldering 20th for Lead and 44th for Speed qualifying in 1st position.
Taking out gold at the world championships 2016 and 2019 boulder and 2019 combined Tomoa is one of the highest achieving boulders in competitions remaining in the top 10 for World Championships since 2014.
30 years old, Austria, Lead Climbing, Ranked 10th for Bouldering 14th for Lead and 67th for Speed qualifying in 2nd position.
Jakob is the veteran of the male competitive scene, competing in world cups since 2007 and achieving his first gold medal in 2011 for lead and combination there almost hasn’t been a year where Jacob hasn’t finished in medal possibility since than with a total of 18 lead golds and 48 lead medals since 2008 18 of them being gold he’s one to watch.
31 years old, France, Bouldering, Ranked 30th for Bouldering 71st for Lead and 34th for Speed qualifying at 5th position.
Younger brother to Bassa who also has made it to the finals similar to his brother known for his immense power and speed making his first national team position in 2014 and winning his first bouldering European Championships in 2019.
24 years old, American, Bouldering, Ranked 20th for Bouldering 30th for Lead and 64th for Speed qualifying at 16th position.
Winning the USA bouldering open nationals three years in a row from 2016 – 2018 being beaten in 2019 by 1 position in bouldering and combination as well. Even though he doesn’t have the medal count the others his age may have his achievements inside the American scene as well as outside on the rock sending Grand Illusion 8C+/V16 make him a competitor to watch out for.
Female Sport Climbing Finalists
Name | Age | Country | Style | IFSC Ranking
22 years old, Slovenia, Bouldering and Lead Climbing, Ranked 1st for Bouldering 2nd for Lead and 48th for Speed qualifying in 1st position.
Possibly the most dominate competitor in the climbing scene taking out gold medals in the World championships from 2016. She’s the only climber in history to sweep a Bouldering world cup season and to win 14 world titles.
17 years old, South Korea, Lead Climbing, Ranked 1st in Lead and 80th in Speed qualifying in 10th position.
In her debut in the 2019 open IFSC world cup title she won the lead climbing ahead of Janja by winning 4 golds 1 silver and 1 bronze in the lead events as well as talking first position in both lead and bouldering disciplines in the Asian Championships.
24 years old, Japan, Bouldering, Ranked 15th Bouldering 19th in Lead and 30th in Speed qualifying in 5th position.
In 2018 she took her first IFSC world cup gold medal in the bouldering and soon after in 2019 she won three Climbing Japan Cup competitions including Bouldering, Speed and combination. Strong young athlete who always has a smile no matter the result.
32 years old, Japan, Lead and Boulder, Ranked 2nd in Bouldering 5th in lead and 57th in Speed qualifying in 2nd position.
The veteran for the females category she’s been competing since 2005 where she took her first bronze medal in lead, since then she’s been the overall world cup winner for Combined in 2008, 2009 and 2014 as well as the bouldering winner 2009, 2010, 2014, 2015 and 2018. With a career spanning 16 years with 169 world cups and world championships 75 of them including podiums she’s announced that this will be her retirement competition.
20 years old, USA, Lead climbing and Boulder, Ranked 55th in Bouldering 46th in Lead and 73rd in Speed qualifying in 7th position.
At age 9 she became the youngest female to climb V10 5.13b, the next year at age 10 she became the youngest female to climb V11 and then again at age 11 she became the youngest female to send 5.14b(8c) with so many achievements outdoors at such a young age now recently taking up the open competition for the first year it’ll be interesting to see what she can do.
24 years old, Austria, Lead Climbing, Ranked 5th in Bouldering 10th in Lead and 61st in Speed qualifying in 8th position.
Started competing from a young age Jessica has taken many podium positions through her youth competitions ranging from 3rd to 1st since 2011 in Youth B and winning 6 international youth competitions in lead and 2 in bouldering. Haven’t seen much since 2018 but with such a high resume already she’s a strong contender for a podium.
27 years old, Poland, Speed, Ranked 9th in Speed and qualifying in 4th position.
Competing in primarily speed taking the world title in 2018 and defending her title a year later in 2019 achieving consistent and impressive times each competition.
27 years old, France, Speed, Ranked 69th in Bouldering and 2nd in Speed qualifying in 9th position.
Not much known other than winning silver in 2017.